Winter 2015/2016 Trends for Menswear

Scouring the runways for the next trend is kind of a pass time. Some folks look at hockey scores, I prefer to look at shoulder points. This year sparked some nice trends that I am seeing across the board. I first noticed it in the UK, then it popped up again in Paris and Milan.  It is a relaxing of the shoulders and an easing of the shoulder structure.  In recent year, that ultra skinny look with narrow shoulders and tight leg pants has dominated the runways for men as well as most department stores. This was especially true in the young mens market regardless of the price point. There is now a dropping of the shoulder point, in some cases as much a a couple of inches. Where it used to sit square at the point of shoulder were the arm attached, it is now moving slowing away and down the arm. (Previously some designers even brought it in a little closer to the neck making the shoulders look more narrow.) This added width gives a more relaxed look. This new trend started in areas of sportwear where comfort and movement is a concern. But it is now moving into outerwear and some special occation wear. This was especially true over at Balmain where the volume of things really got ramped up as well as Armani.

Return of the Raglan

A favorite for outer wear, it has been missing for some time. Now it is cropping up everywhere and in most collections. For some designers, they are using that angular seam line to further accentuate a funnel-like neck or sloping shoulders. They are adding piping or contrast sleeves to make the chest more prominent and the shoulders more strained. There were many, many pieces of outer wear with raglans. Canali had a lovely double breasted, yellow jacket that stood out. God Bless Canali. That is one company that is not afraid of using color. It sets the color standard in my book.

Turning Up the Volume - Pants!

Pants are also moving away from that extra skinny look to a more relaxed silhouette. With the relaxing of the shoulders, designers are noodling with the volume of pant legs and playing with proportions here as well. For the most part, there are many men (particularly in the US) that should have stayed away from the skinny tight pant look. It is not flattering on a lot of body shapes. With that in mind, retailers will have to start looking at their market bases and seeing which trend will predominate. If a guy has a butt, a skinny pant accentuates it (sometime in a good way and other times not so much). A skinny jean is not flattering on a guy with a guy. A fuller pant can hide a skinny leg and make a guy more proportional with even just a little bit of volume. A taller guy can wear a fuller leg pant more easily than a shorter guy. Pant proportions are something that is unique to each guy. A truly... and I have to say this... ask your best female friend. Woman know pants fit. Many guys are clueless on this. They look at the waist size and inseam length and then call it a day. Woman look at fit. A good friend will tell you if those pants you are wearing will make your butt looks sexy or sad. Trust a woman to look at your ass with an objective opinion. Spout a pair and ask her what she thinks.

Wrapping Things Up.

Men have been wearing scarfs for a while... or at least those who know fashion have. I'm not talking about the muffler you wear to go shuffle snow. I am referring to the accessory that is now becoming oversize. What do I mean by oversize? HUGE. Sofa throw size. In some cases, it is a poncho or a wrap. And these puppies are immense and long... usually hitting about mid knee even when wrapped around the neck. Think Dr. Who if you need a reference. When wrapped around the neck, they accentuate the sloping-shoulder look as if to make the guy appear as if he is wrapped in a cocoon. It is a warm and cuddly silhouette that is soft and more approachable while still being effectively masculine. That Matrix edgy-look is really giving way to a more calmer, outdoorsy guy who is more like someone people want to hug instead of run away from. The thug look is leaving. Also think texture. These long throws are oversize but they are also quite LUX. Many I saw were fur and sometimes being sheared beaver or mink. Others had mohair fringe that was quite long. It extends the size without adding too much weight and says luxury in a way without getting stung on a price tag.

A manly shade of....

Yeah... I know. Most guys in the Midwest United States wouldn't be caught dead in PINK. It was interesting to go into stores during this past holiday season. I truly hated some major retailers in Chicago (most notably the one that rhymes with Stacy's) as it was like I walked into a funeral home. The predominant color for men in the Midwest was black... or dark grey. Pity the intellect that equates manlyhood with a lack of color or better yet, one that can only match shades of black, white and grey. Blue would be an exception as it is the color of denim. While men are the only sex that is affected by color blindness, it doesn't mean the majority of men are stupid. London Fashion week turned up the heat considerably with the one color that makes men run to cover their gonads.
 

Know your Color History

During the Rococo Period (1720 to 1775), it was the most favored shade in Europe. It was and still is the "Navy Blue" of Portugal and India. Many public buildings were built with a pink facade or stucco. In the 19th century, it was the color for BOYS... considered young men. Prince Arthur of England was painted in pink and white.


The idea that BLUE being equated for boys actually developed in the late 1900s with the popularity of the sailor suit for boys. Color dye technology also changed the way people look at colors in the 1950s as color fastness was developed. Prior to that time, white was more often used for kids regardless of gender because one could bleach it to death as kids clothes needed to be washed more often. One can see pink in Chicago at the Edgewater Beach Condo Building. A landmark, this building was the epitome of style and sophistication in the 20's when Les Brown used to play in the ballroom. One still thinks pink when thinking hot summer days on the beach... though it still doesn't show up on men. Currently, pink is a color is reserved mostly for seniors. Men over a certain age will wear it in defiance of convention. Those are the smart ones - but why did they wait so long to don the color?

Most color analysts will tell you that it is equated with charm, politeness, sensitivity and romance. Those same analysts will say pink does not have a negative connotation but does not rank in the top choices. It has been know to stop traffic when worn by celebrities like Brad Pitt at Canne. Canali introduced an amazing selection of color sportcoats and suits in Spring 2012. They made me drool. The color that stood out from the pack was pink.

When mixed with an orange shirt, the result is electric energy. It screams youth, vitality and exuberance. It is the one color that also looks good on many skin tones. So why don't we see it more often? Occasionally one will see it paired in the palest of shades with a navy blue or black suit. This winter season, London says YES to pink in a big way.  Some designers like Burberry, Sasir Mazhar and Hardy Aimes had pink in more muted shades. The major portion of designers showed pink more boldly (including Astrid Andersen, Casely-Hayford, Richard Jones, Katie Eary and Tiger of Sweden). Sibling, going extremely fashion forward, showed an entire collection in pink. I will admit, THAT was a bit overboard. Shown is a suit that is one of the more subdued selections. Pink is a color that commands attention but also says warmth in personality. I am excited about seeing it more. Granted, London is much more adventuresome than the United States, particularly the Midwest. One can hope this is a trend that will catch on and move this way.. We will wait to see how long it takes before pink shows up.