Scouring the runways for the next trend is kind of a pass time. Some folks look at hockey scores, I prefer to look at shoulder points. This year sparked some nice trends that I am seeing across the board. I first noticed it in the UK, then it popped up again in Paris and Milan. It is a relaxing of the shoulders and an easing of the shoulder structure. In recent year, that ultra skinny look with narrow shoulders and tight leg pants has dominated the runways for men as well as most department stores. This was especially true in the young mens market regardless of the price point. There is now a dropping of the shoulder point, in some cases as much a a couple of inches. Where it used to sit square at the point of shoulder were the arm attached, it is now moving slowing away and down the arm. (Previously some designers even brought it in a little closer to the neck making the shoulders look more narrow.) This added width gives a more relaxed look. This new trend started in areas of sportwear where comfort and movement is a concern. But it is now moving into outerwear and some special occation wear. This was especially true over at Balmain where the volume of things really got ramped up as well as Armani.
Return of the Raglan
A favorite for outer wear, it has been missing for some time. Now it is cropping up everywhere and in most collections. For some designers, they are using that angular seam line to further accentuate a funnel-like neck or sloping shoulders. They are adding piping or contrast sleeves to make the chest more prominent and the shoulders more strained. There were many, many pieces of outer wear with raglans. Canali had a lovely double breasted, yellow jacket that stood out. God Bless Canali. That is one company that is not afraid of using color. It sets the color standard in my book.
Turning Up the Volume - Pants!
Pants are also moving away from that extra skinny look to a more relaxed silhouette. With the relaxing of the shoulders, designers are noodling with the volume of pant legs and playing with proportions here as well. For the most part, there are many men (particularly in the US) that should have stayed away from the skinny tight pant look. It is not flattering on a lot of body shapes. With that in mind, retailers will have to start looking at their market bases and seeing which trend will predominate. If a guy has a butt, a skinny pant accentuates it (sometime in a good way and other times not so much). A skinny jean is not flattering on a guy with a guy. A fuller pant can hide a skinny leg and make a guy more proportional with even just a little bit of volume. A taller guy can wear a fuller leg pant more easily than a shorter guy. Pant proportions are something that is unique to each guy. A truly... and I have to say this... ask your best female friend. Woman know pants fit. Many guys are clueless on this. They look at the waist size and inseam length and then call it a day. Woman look at fit. A good friend will tell you if those pants you are wearing will make your butt looks sexy or sad. Trust a woman to look at your ass with an objective opinion. Spout a pair and ask her what she thinks.
Wrapping Things Up.
Men have been wearing scarfs for a while... or at least those who know fashion have. I'm not talking about the muffler you wear to go shuffle snow. I am referring to the accessory that is now becoming oversize. What do I mean by oversize? HUGE. Sofa throw size. In some cases, it is a poncho or a wrap. And these puppies are immense and long...
usually hitting about mid knee even when wrapped around the neck.
Think Dr. Who if you need a reference. When wrapped around the neck, they accentuate the sloping-shoulder look as if to make the guy appear as if he is wrapped in a cocoon. It is a warm and cuddly silhouette that is soft and more approachable while still being effectively masculine. That
Matrix edgy-look is really giving way to a more calmer, outdoorsy guy who is more like someone people want to hug instead of run away from. The thug look is leaving. Also think texture. These long throws are oversize but they are also quite LUX. Many I saw were fur and sometimes being sheared beaver or mink. Others had mohair fringe that was quite long. It extends the size without adding too much weight and says luxury in a way without getting stung on a price tag.
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